Tricks of the trade, Written by Lynda Clifford Beauty Therapist Rosebrook Beauty Salon
Before you start
Concentrate on flattering your looks with subtle colours. If you have not got a clue where to start then I suggest you book a free make over at a beauty counter. This way you will be able to identify which shades suit you before you buy.
Preparing your skin
Prior to the application of any products it is important to prepare the correct surface to work on. If this is done correctly an excessively dry or oily problem skin will not show through finished make up.
An on going routine of cleansing, toning and moisturising morning and night immensely contributes to helping your skin look fresh and bright at all times. The action of this routine stimulates circulation to encourage new skin renewal and growth. It also helps eliminate impurities and gets rid of dead skin cells found on the surface of the skin. The best products to use are cleansing gels, milks or lotions as these gently dissolve dirt, grease and make up. Avoid soaps as these can be too harsh and strip away too many of the skins natural oils.
The purpose of toning is to remove any residual cleansing lotion and dirt and also make your skin feel cool and fresh.
Moisturising is the most important part. The skin is covered by its own protective moisturiser called sebum which acts to prevent excessive water loss. Use of a moisturiser acts as a further barrier between the skin and other external factors. Ideally you should use two moisturisers a light consistency for day use and a heavier one to ‘feed’ the skin at night.
A Fresh Base
Before each make up cleanse, tone and apply a light moisturiser. You now have a neutral surface to work with
Concealer, Foundation & Powder
Always start by working in a well lit area. After having cleansed, toned and moisturised apply foundation and powder. This part of the make up has to be perfect as it acts as a backdrop to which you can build on. It is important to apply with a light touch which does not encourage the skins problems to show through, this is vital for an even finish. Prior to the application you may need to deal with imperfections.
Spots, Blemishes & Imperfections
Look at your skin and assess the problems. Common imperfections such as high cheek colour, broken veins & dark circles under the eyes (use Touche Eclat by Yves Saint Lauren) can all be effectively dealt with using clever concealers.
Water based concealers are best as they hold and maintain coverage. Green cover sticks are popular for tackling problems with high colour and broken veins. To use a concealer take a small brush and apply to the problem area, press onto the skin with a dry latex sponge. Pressing the product is far more effective than blending.
Choosing a Shade of Foundation
The good news is that dull and lifeless skin is a thing of the past! There are products on the market specially designed to deal with this problem. These contain hundreds of light reflective particles which bounce light away from your skin giving vitality and disguising fine lines. Try to match the foundation as closely as possible to your facial skin tone. The best place to try a foundation is on your forehead!
Application
Use an eyeshadow blending brush to dot foundation then blend using a latex sponge section by section starting with the forehead, cheeks, chin, nose and eyelids. Glide over the skin in a downward motion so you work in the same direction as tiny facial hairs.
Apply foundation to the eyelids as this will provide a good base for eye make up and block out veins and redness. Avoid applying too much to the eyelids as this will cause the eyeshadow to crease. Do not apply to deep lines, wrinkles or bags around the eyes as it will only accentuate these problems.
Cover lips with foundation as this will give lipstick greater staying power.
Face Powder
Used to ‘Set’ foundation and ensure longevity. Translucent is the most popular as this allows the natural skin tone to shine through. Press the powder into the skin using a ‘Powder Puff.’ The pressing action can also help to absorb excess oil.
Blusher
Add a youthful glow with blusher! Its purpose is to accentuate the bone structure and add colour. The best type of blusher for daytime wear is powder blusher. It is fine in texture and you have greater control over its application.
There are light and dark blushers both of which serve to make the cheek bones more prominent although work in opposite ways. Lighter shades should be applied along the cheekbones whilst darker shades receed areas and are applied below the cheekbones. Apply using very light pressure starting at the hairline and working your way to the centre of the face.
Eyebrows
These frame the eyes and effect the overall look. In order to ensure your eye shadow blends effectively eyebrows must be smooth. Therefore pluck or have eyebrows waxed (ensuring this is done 2 days prior to the event). Tidy eyebrows will give balance to the finished look. The object is to enhance your natural features so do not falsify the effects. Use a pencil or powdered shadow and gradually and delicately apply. To soften a hard pencil line use an eyebrow brush.
Eyeshadow
This is a basic shading technique which with slight contrasting colours can be adapted to suit almost everyone. For best results loose or cream powder products should be used.
The first colour covers the entire lid and is the lightest, used to highlight brow bones and give a base to all other colours. The second colour is the darkest of all colours you choose and is applied with a pencil under the bottom lid and over part of the top lid. This will accentuate the eye. For a softer look blend these lines with a sponge tipped applicator.
The third colour fills the area from the beginning of the eyebrow down to the inside corner of the eye. It is darker than the base colour, lighter than the pencil and contrasts with the fourth colour. This makes the look sharper and makes the eyes appear larger.
The fourth colour is most important as this defines the eye shape. It should contrast with the third colour but still be lighter in colour than the pencil colour. Apply this colour to the top lid over the area covered by the eye pencil. Blend the shadow with downward strokes but work on the pencil area towards the eyebrow.
Lipstick
To achieve a well co-ordinated effect choose a lipstick colour which blends with your blusher. Outline the shape of your lips using a pencil (Rimmel have a good range) or lip brush, this will also help to stop your lipstick ‘bleeding.’ Close your lips to create a firm surface then fill in the rest, open your mouth to colour the corners of the mouth properly. Gently blot with a tissue and dust with loose powder before applying a second coat this will give extra staying power. For a soft dewy look apply lip gloss and concentrate on the centre of the lips.
Mascara
Final and most flattering of all make up! It really does enhance and glamorise your look. Use long sweeping motions with your wand to apply mascara. To remove clogged areas on lashes take a tissue rest under the eyelashes, close eyes and use an eyebrow brush to comb through. Most women’s colouring fades over time so colour which may have suited you when you were younger may now be too harsh and should be replaced with lighter shades. Hypnose by Lancome is a fabulous product!
Finishing Touches
To complete the daytime look add blusher to the chin, nose and forehead. This helps to achieve a warm delicate glow.
Recommended Products
I only recommend products I have tried and tested for ease of application and staying power. There are professional brands Thalgo Skin Care, Mac & Mary Kay which deliver outstanding results. Otherwise products from Lancome, Estee Lauder, Clinique, Rimmel and Kanebo are all exceptionally good products and reflect value for money. These products are commonly available in most department stores.
